Leftovers
Anticipated head high and perfect waves at sunrise on Friday. Thursday evening was overhead and swell was forecasted to hold for friday morning with better winds and the incoming tide was a bonus. surfed all afternoon thursday and was wishing i had my camera to swim around and shoot in the water as the evening light was gorgeous and great waves were coming in. ”missing it” is good thing for motivation. but i had my hopes up too high for friday. Alarm set for 530. at first light the surf was a major letdown. gotta stop checking forecasts so much. easy to do on the ec. half the size i was hoping for and poor shape. got a little better with tide push but still not very good, and nothing like the evening before. jesse is getting hip replacement surgery on monday so this was his last surf session for at least 6 months. felt good to swim around and get a few photos of him during his last session for a while. ready for a big north swell with winter juice!
















Discussion Area - Leave a Comment